Again and again it happens that dogs take something with their mouth that is not so healthy. Not to mention poison baits … It is worth gold if you have a spit signal that works very well.
In some dogs and in some situations, a swap also works. But not always works for every dog. It is more effective to train a signal that later simply functions like a reflex. The dog can hardly do anything other than spit out through the previous training …
We start training and your dog has nothing in its mouth. Kind of funny, isn’t it? Why are we doing this? On the one hand, it is a kind of guarantee of success – nothing can go wrong, your dog is guaranteed to open its mouth – mislinks are therefore impossible. Another advantage is that your dog initially only connects the signal with something pleasant being added to the situation and this signal not announcing that he has to give something. Makes sense, doesn’t it?
Instructions for your spit-out signal
STEP 1 – The beginning
At the beginning, please mainly train at home in a low-distraction environment. The first 4-5 exercises start while your dog is looking at you so that he also knows what is happening.
Important: The dog must not have anything in its mouth and there should be nothing nearby that your dog likes to put in its mouth!
If you already have a spit-out signal that doesn’t really work well, I recommend that you use this guide to set up a completely new signal. A few weeks will pass before the construction is completed. In time you can still use your old signal.
- When walking or standing, say “OFF” (or other signal) clearly and friendly
- only then (very important) drop some really great treats on the floor, your dog can eat them immediately!
- while your dog eats the treats, move the treats lying on the floor with your hand, show the dog and push it towards the mouth. This is important so that the dog can later easily allow your hands to be close to the object of its desire. Prevents a little bit of possible resource defense.
- Cheer your dog on verbally, look for the treats and eat them, make a party out of them, rejoice with them!
- from time to time stroke the dog while eating, make physical contact – you and especially your hands are always nearby!
Do this in all possible situations:
Standing, sitting, sitting on the floor, walking while you put on or take off a jacket or carry something around (boxes, trash bags, books), when you have a hat on, sweep with a broom or use the vacuum cleaner, when something is going on. Also practice quietly when your dog is lying on his bed or in his basket, the treats can also be thrown into the basket.
After a while, party outside too. On the walk, in the parking lot, in the forest, on meadows … Wherever you are with your dog and where your spit signal should work later.
Make sure you really surprise your dog with this signal. The signal comes out of nowhere and the treats fly, although your dog doesn’t expect it at all.
STEP 2 – The increase:
At first there are uninteresting things on the floor that your dog does not find sooo interesting. Here, too, your dog still has nothing in its mouth when it spits out! So you continue training as in the first step.
What could that be for you? Think about it … broccoli, extremely boring toys, small boxes … This is so different from dog to dog. Make it easy for your dog!
STEP 3 – The next increase:
Things are getting more and more interesting around you, but your dog still has nothing in its mouth when you give your signal.
Don’t forget to train in many different situations!
STEP 4 – The difficult increase – now it’s getting interesting:
Now you can train when your dog has something boring in its mouth. Try it first at home in peace ….
- Your dog may have a cardboard roll (if boring) in its mouth
- You give your spit-out signal
- Dog drops cardboard roll
- only then will your marker signal * (if you work with it, which I highly recommend)
- the treats fly immediately
- The cardboard roll is not taken away, your dog can keep it
Throw the treats immediately after your signal, even if your dog does not yet drop the cardboard roll at the signal. At the latest when the cookies fly, he will drop them. If still not, you’re only interested in the great treats, the cardboard roll is completely uninteresting. Then maybe take a step back and consolidate the signal without your dog having anything in its mouth. Maybe you should also rethink the choice of your treats. Are there more great ones for your dog?
STEP 5 – One more level of difficulty:
Now it is up to you to continue to train … Slowly and step by step increase the difficulties for your dog. Don’t overdo it – it should always work! If it doesn’t work, you have probably gone too quickly.
Let what your dog has in its mouth become more and more interesting, always reward yourself with great treats and train in just about every conceivable situation. It will be a lot of fun for you and your dog!
Little by little you can start to take away the spit out. But very often, your dog should be allowed to keep it after spitting out and picking up your thrown treats. Because your spit-out signal should remain a great signal – you have to “keep it alive” and keep refreshing it.
I hope you enjoy training!
Of course, this training structure is also purely positive reinforcement, it should be really fun for you and your dog – the greater the success will be! While you are training, there is no ranting, grumbling, saying no or ugly, or jerking on a leash and correcting! The joy of joint training should also be the focus here! If you are just frustrated or upset, postpone the training session!
During your training over the next few weeks, your dog should not eat anything that can be eaten, if possible. Unfortunately, it is often difficult to prevent. If you are in a “dangerous” area, leash your dog once more, it will make it easier for him to train if he has less success outdoors.